Licorice root extract and its forms

Licorice root extract is a botanical preparation from plants in the Glycyrrhiza genus. You may also see the spelling “liquorice.” An extract can contain a mixture of compounds, while a formula may use one particular licorice derivative.

That distinction explains why licorice appears in very different skin-care products. A soothing moisturizer, a dark-spot serum, and a shampoo do not necessarily use the same ingredient or have the same purpose. The species, extraction method, concentration, and rest of the formula matter.

Licorice root extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, licochalcone A, and glabridin

These names are related, but they are not interchangeable. Read the full ingredient list and check which ingredient was actually studied.

Glycyrrhetinic acid is another related ingredient. Its name also should not be substituted for dipotassium glycyrrhizate when comparing labels or research.¹

Potential skin benefits and the limits of the evidence

The main areas of interest are soothing irritated-looking skin, supporting comfort in dry skin, and addressing uneven pigmentation. Evidence varies across these uses. It often concerns a particular extract or a moisturizer containing several ingredients.

For everyday skin care, choose the finished product for your goal. A moisturizer containing licorice derivatives may also rely on humectants such as glycerin and other ingredients that help retain moisture. Its hydration results cannot automatically be credited to licorice alone. A rinse-off wash also has a different role from a leave-on serum or cream.

Licochalcone A for redness, sensitive skin, and acne care

Licochalcone A has been investigated for anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant effects. Vehicle-controlled human studies examined licochalcone-containing formulas after shaving and with UV-induced redness, reporting reduced irritation in those settings.² This supports interest in soothing skin care; it does not establish a treatment for every cause of facial redness or replace sunscreen.

Dryness during acne treatment

Some acne treatments can leave skin dry and uncomfortable. A small 2026 study found that a moisturizer containing licochalcone A and other ingredients eased dryness better than another moisturizer. It did not improve acne any more than the other moisturizer.³

This suggests a possible benefit for skin comfort while using acne medicine. Because the moisturizer contained several ingredients, the study cannot tell us how much of that benefit came from licochalcone A alone.

Evidence for dark spots, melasma and post-acne marks

Some licorice compounds are studied for their influence on melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. Glabridin is one example. A 2025 study investigated licorice extract components and pigment-related pathways in laboratory and animal models. Those results explain scientific interest, but they are not proof of a dark-spot treatment in people.⁴

A 2023 study found an improvement in overall facial discoloration after 16 weeks. Participants used a product containing licorice, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and other ingredients, plus SPF 50 sunscreen. The dermatologist’s rating of overall discoloration improved by 32%. However, the study did not show a statistically significant improvement in dark marks left after inflammation, such as acne.⁵

The findings are encouraging for the tested skincare routine, but they do not show how much of the benefit came from licorice alone.

If your concern is dark marks after acne or melasma, look for evidence for the complete product and use sun protection. Happy Cappy’s use of dipotassium glycyrrhizate for skin conditioning is not a claim that its washes or cream fade pigmentation.

Licorice root extract and eczema research

A small 2003 trial compared 1% and 2% licorice-extract gels with a base gel for atopic dermatitis over two weeks, with 30 people in each group. The researchers reported benefits for redness, swelling, and itching, with the 2% preparation performing better than the 1% gel.⁶

This short study used specific experimental gels. It does not show that all licorice-containing skin care treats eczema, nor that a wash works like a leave-on gel. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is not a corticosteroid and should not be described as equivalent to hydrocortisone.

Happy Cappy Daily Shampoo & Body Wash and Moisturizing Cream can support a routine for dry, sensitive, eczema-prone skin. They do not replace a clinician’s plan for an eczema flare.

Licorice in shampoo and the limits of hair claims

Licorice-derived ingredients can have a supporting skin-conditioning role in a shampoo. For Happy Cappy, that means helping soothe and condition dry, sensitive skin while the wash cleanses.

Hair growth is a different question. The skin studies described here do not establish a hair-growth benefit, and Happy Cappy makes no hair-regrowth claim for this ingredient. For dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, check the Drug Facts panel: pyrithione zinc 0.95% is the active ingredient in Happy Cappy Medicated Shampoo & Body Wash.

Licorice-derived skin conditioning in Happy Cappy

We include dipotassium glycyrrhizate, a licorice-derived ingredient, to help soothe and condition dry, sensitive skin. It has a supporting role in both Happy Cappy washes and the Moisturizing Cream. Look for Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate on the ingredient list.

• Medicated Shampoo & Body Wash: pyrithione zinc 0.95% is the labeled active for relief of flaking, scaling, and itching associated with dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate supports the formula’s skin-conditioning role.
• Daily Shampoo & Body Wash: everyday cleansing for dry, sensitive, eczema-prone skin.
• Moisturizing Cream: leave-on moisture for dry, sensitive skin. The tube and jar contain the same formula.

You can compare the complete lists and the Medicated Wash label on our Ingredients & Drug Facts hub. Licochalcone A and glabridin are not the licorice ingredients listed in these Happy Cappy formulas.

Safety and choosing a licorice-containing skin product

Choose a finished product intended for the person’s age, skin concern, and area of use, and follow its directions. A botanical source does not guarantee that every person will tolerate a formula.

If you have reacted to a licorice-containing product before, review the full ingredient list with your clinician before trying another. Stop using a product if it causes irritation. Studies of topical formulas do not establish the safety or benefits of drinking licorice tea, taking supplements, or applying a homemade extract.

References and formula details

1. Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Safety assessment of glycyrrhizic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, and related ingredients. International Journal of Toxicology, 2007.
2. Kolbe L, et al. Anti-inflammatory efficacy of licochalcone A. Archives of Dermatological Research, 2006.
3. Triwatcharikorn J, et al. A bioactive moisturizer for side effects of acne therapies: randomized split-face trial. Dermatology Reports, 2026. Study details: 40 participants, four weeks, funded by the moisturizer’s manufacturer. Happy Cappy was not studied.
4. Glycyrrhiza glabra extract: pigment-related components and pathway research. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2025.
5. Draelos ZD, et al. A multimodal topical approach to skin dyspigmentation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023.
6. Saeedi M, et al. The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. Journal of Dermatological Treatment, 2003.

Happy Cappy Ingredients & Drug Facts hub: current formula lists